Buenos Aires has many neighborhoods (an old tango claims that there are a hundred of them), but you’ll soon find out that at least five or six are called Palermo something. The reason? Palermo is huge, so the locals came up with their own monikers for the different subareas. In time, informal boundaries and identities were established, and so it was that Palermo Soho, Palermo Viejo, Palermo Hollywood, and many others came to be.
What to do in Palermo, then? We’ve split this guide into different areas, each featuring suggested activities and locations, as well as recommendations for restaurants, cafés, and bars.
Here's a quick overview:
- Street art in Palermo Soho
- Serrano & Armenia Street Market (Weekends & National Holidays)
- Palermo Food Tour
- Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden)
- El Rosedal (Rose Garden)
- Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden)
- Malba Museum
- Walk around Palermo Hollywood
- Flea Market (Mercado de Pulgas)
- Niceto Club
Palermo Soho
The Soho is Palermo’s, nay, Buenos Aires’ trendiest area, and a hub spot for everything cool. Street art, cafés, upcoming fashion designers, street markets, incredible restaurants, and more. Palermo Soho is a must for any visitor. Try to spend at least a day here if you have the time (it’s also a great place to stay for tourists).
Check out the street art!
There’s a very cool paste-up and street at movement going around town, and Palermo is at the center of it. Any facade can become an impromptu art piece overnight. The little alleyways are particularly ripe with graffiti and poster art (Head to Sta. Rosa 5061 to start).
Plaza Serrano Street Market
Palermo Soho is the perfect destination for a weekend stroll, as the area around Plaza Serrano is closed to traffic to set up the street market. You can walk through the cobbled streets and peruse the little stalls that sell everything from kitschy souvenirs to beautifully crafted notebooks and chic designer wear. There’s another market very close by, on Plaza Armenia.
Serrano & Armenia Street Market: 10 am-8 pm every Saturday, Sunday, plus National Holidays.
Palermo Food Tour
The best way to discover Palermo Soho, if we may say so. Full disclosure: we host the Palermo Food Tour, and we came up with the concept to give people the real Palermo experience: great food, great people, and a good old time. If you want to try traditional dishes, try some of the best restaurants in the area, see the neighborhood highlights, and learn a thing or two, this is your chance. Check the tour out!
Where to eat in Palermo Soho?
A few of our favorite spots to grab a bite or have a coffee.
Restaurants in Palermo Soho
- Don Julio (Guatemala 4699): arguably the best parrilla in the country - we covered Don Julio at length in our article about the best steakhouses in Buenos Aires. Worth checking out if you have the coin!
- La Cabrera (José A. Cabrera 5127): if Don Julio is the best, La Cabrera certainly is the most popular. Portions big enough to share, and tasty to boot.
- El Preferido de Palermo (Jorge Luis Borges 2108): a classic bodegón (diner-style restaurant) that showcases typical homemade dishes prepared to perfection. Everything here is good, from the bread to the steak.
Cafés in Palermo Soho
- Rústico Chocolate (Godoy Cruz 1823): incredible chocolate alfajores and a good cup of coffee. The only downside is that the place is take-away only, but they do have a few tables where you can sit and enjoy your drink.
- Lattente (Thames 1891): If you like coffee (like, really like coffee) this is the place to go. Just trust us.
- Fifí Almacén (Gorriti 4812): one of the best vegan cafés in town. Fresh organic food, perfect for a weekend brunch.
Bars in Palermo Soho
- Parque Bar Botánico (Thames 1472): Modern and fun, great cocktails and good ambiance. Make a reservation or show up early - the place is quite small.
- Desarmadero (Gorriti 4295): many of Palermo’s trendy corners used to be car repair shops, which Desarmadero (“Scrapyard”) pays homage to. Big portions, good beer and friendly ambience.
Bosques de Palermo
The “Palermo Forests” are Buenos Aires’ favorite green area for locals and visitors alike. The parks are free to visit (except for the Japanese Garden) and are perfect for a bike ride or a nice stroll (be sure to double-check your route before you head out: it’s a big area).
El Rosedal
The rose garden is perhaps the most beautiful park in the entire city, and rightfully so. It is particularly lovely to visit during spring and early summer, as the roses are then in full bloom. You are bound to find a quinceañera doing her photoshoot, as both the flora and architecture are the perfect backdrops for the princess-style dresses young ladies choose to wear for their 15th birthday party.
Jardín Japonés
The Japanese Garden has an entrance fee, but the ticket is very affordable. It is particularly lovely at the end of July and early August when the cherry trees are in bloom (though beware the winter holidays: families will flock to the garden en masse, resulting in long queues, so try to get there early). They have a few restaurants inside, so you can stay for a coffee or grab a meal while you are at it (prices are a little high).
Jardín Botánico
The Botanical Garden is another fantastic park in the Palermo area. It’s more conveniently located than the others, as it’s on Santa Fe Avenue, one of the major avenues of the city. It features both native species and specimens from around the world. It’s a lovely spot for a quiet stroll.
Malba Museum
The Museum of Latin American Art is immensely popular with young people, and for good reason: the exhibitions are dynamic and ever-changing, and the museum hosts many evening events. This is where the avant-garde crowd hangs out, quite literally. Worth a visit if you are into museums.
Where to eat in the Bosques de Palermo?
There aren't many places close to the parks; be sure to plan your meals accordingly.
Bars & Cafés in Bosques de Palermo
- Rabieta bar (Av. del Libertador 3949): for fun and cocktails, right next to the Hipódromo. A classy place with an amazing view. You can eat at the restaurant or head to the bar for music and dancing. Particularly lovely during the summer.
- Coco Café (Demaría 4615): cakes, cakes, and more cakes. Also good for brunch, but really, come for the cakes.
- Ninina (Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta 3415): right next to the Malba, for brunch or high tea. Top location and good food. Ninina is actually a franchise, but it’s still pretty good.
Palermo Hollywood
Palermo Soho’s older sibling, Palermo Hollywood shares the cool factor of the Soho but caters primarily to foodies. There are fewer boutiques and more restaurants and cafés.
Locals started calling this sub-area of Palermo “Hollywood” during the mid-nineties, as TV and radio producers established their headquarters in the then-exclusively residential area. Before that, the area was known for a few sports clubs that doubled as social hubs for locals, such as Deportivo Palermo and Estrella de Maldonado (both still up and running).
What to do in Palermo Hollywood?
Walk Around A bit
Palermo Hollywood doesn’t really have signature “locations”, but therein lies the appeal. The cobbled streets, low-rise buildings, and abundance of cafés and restaurants make this area the perfect destination if you are feeling overwhelmed by the hectic rhythm of the city.
Go to the Mercado de las Pulgas
While this is technically in Colegiales, the Flea Market is a must-see destination, and it really is just around the corner from Palermo Hollywood. Local thrifters raid the antique market in search of refurbished furniture or exotic decor. You can wander the stalls for an hour or so without feeling bored.
Once you are done perusing the goods, check out the nearby Scannapieco ice cream shop - this is one of the best ice cream Shops in Buenos Aires. Go order yourself a cone!
Live Music at Niceto Club
If you are in the mood for live music, Niceto Club is a great place to catch a show. The place has been going strong since it opened during the late 90s, and has seen most of the best local rock bands and many international ones. The best way to enjoy Niceto is to go see a band - shows usually start around 9 pm - and stick around until midnight when the party gets started.
Where to eat in Palermo Hollywood?
- Malcriada Café (Dr. Emilio Ravignani 1338): if you are into coffee and pistachio, this is the place to go. It has recently become VERY popular, so get there early or order to go.
- La Mar Cebichería (Arévalo 2024): incredible Peruvian Food. The Latam food scene in Buenos Aires is superb, and it’s getting better by the day given the recent immigration the city has experienced from all over the continent.
- The Argentine Experience (Fitz Roy 2110): the go-to food experience if you want to enjoy typical Argentine food, and learn a bit about the local culture and history (go for the steak and stay for the wine!).
