Welcome to San Telmo, one of Buenos Aires oldest neighborhoods, and one of the most traditional as well. Cobbled streets, art galleries, chic cafés, antiques, and fresh produce… old and new meet and mesh in San Telmo in wonderful ways, and we are here to show you just how.
By the way, we also have a 3-day Buenos Aires itinerary with our favorite city highlights and insider tips.
Here’s a quick overview:
- San Telmo Market (Defensa 963)
- Defensa Street Fair (Defensa 100 – 1500)
- Plaza Dorrego & Antique Market (Humberto 1º 400)
- San Telmo Food Tour
- Parque Lezama & National History Museum (Defensa 1600)
- Modern Art Museum (Av. San Juan 350)
- Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa 1179)
- Casa Mínima (San Lorenzo 380)
- Mafalda Statue (Defensa 700)
- Comic Strip Walk (several stops)
San Telmo Market
The San Telmo Market is open from Tuesday to Sunday, unlike the Feria de San Telmo which takes place every Sunday. The indoor market first opened in 1897 and it hasn’t changed much since. The San Telmo Market has it all: antique jewelry, knick-knacks, fresh produce, and several food stalls and cafés where you can grab a bite (we especially like Hornero for regional food and Beba Cocina for porteño staples with a twist).
The San Telmo Market is located in Defensa 963. It opens from 10.30 am to 7.30 from Tuesday to Friday, and from 9 am to 8 pm during weekends and public holidays. It’s better to show up around midday, as Argentines aren’t early risers. Sundays can be very crowded, as the Market gets a lot of overflow from the neighboring Feria. The ideal day to visit is either a Saturday or a weekday. And wear sensible shoes (this goes for anything you do in San Telmo except maybe Tango dancing).
Defensa Street Fair
San Telmo’s flea market is the most well-known street fair in the entire city.
Every Sunday, Defensa Street is covered with stalls selling everything and anything: kitschy souvenirs, leather goods, antiques, designer clothing, and stationery…Locals and tourists alike flock to the street fair to browse the goods; you can easily spend hours walking along the cobblestone streets. The best part? Most of what you will see here are handmade items made by the stall owners themselves. Bring cash, most won’t accept international cards.
The Street Fair goes all the way from Plaza de Mayo to Parque Lezama, but the best stalls are the ones closer to Plaza Dorrego. You can visit from 10 am to 5 pm (the earlier the better).
Plaza Dorrego & Antique Market
At the heart of San Telmo lies the iconic Plaza Dorrego, which hosts the antique market every Sunday. Some street vendors will also set up shop during the week. Bohemian, relaxed, and lively, this is the perfect place to take a break.
Take a look around the square, grab a table at one of the nearby restaurants or cafés, and have a drink. The food here is nothing to write home about; we recommend a cup of coffee or maybe a lemonade or a soda during the hot summer months. What makes sitting down worth it are the tango dancers: you can always catch a show here, which is a great (and quicker) alternative to the 3-hour affairs that are most tango experiences.
San Telmo Food Tour
If what you are looking for is a tour of San Telmo with some fantastic food, the San Telmo Food Tour hosted by Sherpa (that’s us) is your go-to. The tour takes you to iconic historic restaurants and locations (including the San Telmo Market), and gives you the chance to try the very best dishes in Argentine cuisine, including some unexpected treats you probably haven’t heard about yet. There’s drinks, there’s wine, there’s steak (of course) and there’s fun guaranteed (but don’t take our word for it – take a look at our stellar reviews from previous guests).
Parque Lezama & National History Museum
If you visit San Telmo on a Sunday, the Defensa Street Fair will eventually lead you to Parque Lezama, a quieter park in the neighborhood. It has its own fair, as most important parks do, but the real highlight here is the National History Museum.
Housed in a colonial mansion, the museum is a gorgeous architectural piece to visit. If you are lucky, you may catch the grenadier guard change – two granaderos are permanently stationed to watch the sword of national hero José de San Martín, which is kept at the museum. Admission is free, so take a quick peek if you can.
Modern Art Museum
Bright, quiet, and often colorful, the Modern Art Museum clashes a little bit with the old flair of San Telmo, but the change is welcome. Admission is free for locals only, but the entrance fee is quite cheap (and free on Wednesdays). Even if modern art isn’t your jam, the museum is the perfect spot to catch a break if you are visiting during the summer months – there’s AC, free wifi, and a lovely little café that serves a great iced latte.
Pasaje de la Defensa
While a visit to San Telmo almost always entails a trip to the Market or a stroll through Defensa Street, you should definitely stop by Pasaje de la Defensa (Defensa Alley) during your tour of the area.
This mansion used to be the home of the aristocratic Ezeiza family back in the 19th century. The Ezeizas fled the place when the yellow fever struck, affecting the area closest to the river. The building was converted into a multi-family tenement home or “conventillo”, as happened with most of the once luxurious mansions in San Telmo and Barracas.
The present-day Pasaje de la Defensa is a beautiful gallery featuring gorgeous architecture, antique shops, and cafés.
Casa Mínima
With just 2.5 meters width (that’s 2,73 yards for our friends from the US) this is the narrowest house in town, and maybe the world (the latter is just a guess, but we Argentines enjoy making claims of being the most at something). The tour is lackluster, but this is a great location to snap a picture (stretch your arms to the sides as much as you can for maximum comedic effect). It’s right around the corner from Defensa Street and Independencia Avenue, so you don’t have to go out of your way to see it.
Mafalda Statue
Argentina is pretty well known for our comic strips, with Mafalda being a world-famous character, a beloved local icon, and even a UNESCO ambassador. Fun fact: Mafalda has a small easter egg appearance in the DCU, showing up in a keychain Suicide Squad 2 (which takes place in the fictional “Argentine-adjacent” island of Corto Maltese.
There’s a Mafalda statue in San Telmo, and people will line up to take a picture with Argentina’s favorite kid. You can skip the queue if you are in San Telmo during the week (usually), or very early during the weekend.
Comic Strip Walk
If you are into comic strips, check out the Paseo de la Historieta, i.e. “comic strip walk”. The Mafalda statue is one of many statues that pay homage to the most famous national comic strips. This is a fun walk you can do to explore San Telmo and the nearby areas of Montserrat and Puerto Madero, and a great activity for people of all ages, particularly kids. Here are all the stops!